The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

From dusty barn find to daily driver, it seems our cars are never really done. This is the place to share your progress on your project car. We will celebrate your victories and commiserate over your tragedies. But most of all this is a great place to learn!
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Mike_B_SVT
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Location: Hillsboro, OR

Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#251

Post by Mike_B_SVT » 09 Nov 2018, 21:42

Very cool! Looks great! ...that's on my "To Do" list for this winter. Have to say I'm not really looking forward to it though >.<
Mike B.
CCOA # 9553

1970 Cougar Eliminator (Competition Gold / Black Decor Interior)
1 of 70 with 428SCJ, Ram Air, 4-speed.
Cat Bites Man!

Looking for an Eliminator? Then be sure to check out the "Eliminators on the Market" thread in the Classic Cougars For Sale section of the forum!

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Blitz
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Location: Salem, OR

Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#252

Post by Blitz » 10 Nov 2018, 02:40

Al Bundy wrote:
09 Nov 2018, 20:06
So did you ever imagine a few years ago when you started that you’d be where you are today?
I dunno, if you would have told me back in 2011 that it would take this long, and cost this much, and prevent me from having a social life, I might not have gone for it :lol: But then if you showed me these pictures I'd probably say "wow, that looks good!" In the long run I think it's something I'll be proud of.

This all started because I wanted to fix the rusty roof. I didn't really intend on going this far with it, but one thing led to another... hence the "snowball effect." I'm not a total perfectionist but I do have those tendencies, and want to make things right, or as good as they can be within reason. And really, being employed at WCCC and having access to the shop space and tools there, not to mention all the parts I could possibly need within reach, what better time and place in my life would there be to tackle this?
Mike_B_SVT wrote:
09 Nov 2018, 21:42
Very cool! Looks great! ...that's on my "To Do" list for this winter. Have to say I'm not really looking forward to it though >.<
Thanks Mike! I was kinda dreading it too, and although there was some heavy lifting, and lots of pieces to refurbish or replace, it wasn't so bad overall. Pretty satisfying to get it done.
-Andrew Chenovick
Photo/Video guy for WEST COAST CLASSIC COUGAR, INC.
Side Gig: FLYING A PHOTOGRAPHY


RIDES:
-1968 Mercury Cougar: original family owned, Polar White, 289-2V, auto, AC / "Snowball" view project thread
-1973 Opel Manta: 1.9L, 5-speed (restored)
-1991 Mazda Miata: fun driver
-1992 Volvo 240 wagon: classy hauling machine

Whatacougar
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Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#253

Post by Whatacougar » 10 Nov 2018, 09:07

Your snowball is out of control. I've followed this thread since you started it and have always been impressed with your work and your patience. That rear end project fascinated me. That's one of the few things on my car that I have purposely ignored, except for brakes, seals, and bearings. I'm going to try to forget that I ever saw your pictures because it sure would be nice to see everything that clean but I don't think I have the energy for that.

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Royce
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Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#254

Post by Royce » 10 Nov 2018, 12:06

Amazing thread, nice work Andrew.
1968 GT-E XR-7 W code 427 Augusta Green / Saddle
1968 XR-7 R code 428CJ Ram Air Red / Black
1910 Model T Ford Touring Red / Black
1914 Model T Touring Maroon / Black
1915 Model T Ford Touring Black / Black
1917 Model T Ford Torpedo Runabout Green / Black
XR7-G Registrar

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1967 S Code
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Location: Sumter, South Carolina

Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#255

Post by 1967 S Code » 11 Nov 2018, 14:01

Looking good Andrew!
Steven
Image

Our Cougars

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1967 Standard
Dan Gurney Special

6.5 Litre, Black / Black, AC Whisperaire, Am/FM, Sports Console,
Front and Rear Bumper Guards, Clock

1968 XR7-G
302 4V, Lime Frost / Black Leather, AM/FM, Black Vinyl, Tilt-A-Way
Heavy Duty Suspension, Power Disc Brakes, Rader Wheels


1968 XR7-G Hertz
390 4V, Black Cherry/ Dark Red Leather, Black Vinyl, Sunroof, Tilt-A-Way,
Cruise, Rear Defrost, AC Whisperaire


1968 Convertible Conversion "Top Cat"
Standard, 302 4V, XR7G Console, XR7G Front Valance, XR7S Taillight Bars

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Blitz
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Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#256

Post by Blitz » 14 Nov 2018, 12:44

Thanks guys!

So, I skipped over some stuff. I was scrolling back on my phone photos and realized I never posted this stuff. So let me go back in time for a sec.

Front bumper installation! Kinda awkward and it helps to have a second person. In the end, I left the brackets slightly loose on the bumper to allow for some movement / adjustment once on the car. To this day I still need to cinch them all down, but they are hard to get to once on the car! Also, a big piece of foam like this is super handy for things like fenders and bumpers.

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The bumper hardware kit gives you everything for the front and rear, I definitely suggest it if you're replacing the bumpers.

It's great that the rubber filler pieces are now available. My originals were rock hard, deformed and starting to crack. Word on the street is that new ones are in the works for the rear bumper too. But for now, here is the fender to bumper piece:

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And here is the upper filler piece (put these in before installing the bumper!):

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Now for a little detail - it seems that there was a slight design flaw on these cars, which causes the hood trim pieces to not quite line up with the fender extension pieces. We had recently taken the trim off of another car for a video, and noticed that the ends had been shimmed. So I did the same. It just took a few little washers. I used two on the outermost screw holes, and one on the next inboard holes.

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Much better!

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Front view that shows things lining up nicely:

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Next, here's another fun little detail idea I had. I've noticed on a lot of cars how the mounting tabs for the front valance kinda stick out like a sore thumb. With my car being white, I knew it would be even more obvious. So I thought it would look good to black out these tabs, so the valance would have a more seamless look. Here's a before shot:

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In process:

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Done:

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Next, before installing the valance, it's easier to do the turn signals now. I repainted my original spacer cup things, and kept the old clips (even though they're no longer usable - the modified wiring for the repro turn signals makes this area too stiff to bend around into the clips).

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Front view after installing the valance.

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Here's a closeup of one of the blacked out tabs, and of course I had to paint the bolts to match.

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Next, I installed new side marker lights. The only original parts I reused were the wiring and the screws for the lenses (they are unique, don't lose yours!). The bulb socket is pressed in to the light housing, so you just have to get creative to liberate it from the old one and press it in to the new one without damaging anything. While I was assembling my stuff, I went ahead and made this graphic for WCCC. So if you punch any of these item numbers into the website, they'll come up.

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I also reused my old backing plates and attaching nuts. Of course I cleaned them up and painted them black, but no picture of that. They went on the car fairly easily. Also worth mentioning that I had already installed my front fender splash shields first, after finishing up the grille project.

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Another tiny, almost insignificant detail - I knew that I was going to install the windshield soon, so I wanted to clean up these little guys. They are unique to the 1968 Standard, and they retain / finish off the A-pillar edge of the headliner, since there are no full-length pillar pads like you'd see on the Decor or XR-7 trim. Blasted, painted and reinstalled. I know, I need to clean the glue off the A-pillar.

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Finally, I never really showed the finished side glass, so here ya go:

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The one issue I still have with the door windows is, I can't seem to get them to roll all the way up at the front, and fit snugly into the corner of the vent window track. They just stop a little shy. And it's not the actual window stops, as I had them loose and they weren't bottoming out yet. Has anyone run into that issue? I think they are close enough to be okay, but would like them to actually roll all the way up...

Anyway, that covers the stuff I missed before! More to come soon, I'm still making some progress almost every day. Here's a finishing shot, but ignore the amber lenses on the turn signals. I put those in as placeholders because they came in the kit and we were out of the clear lenses for a little bit.

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-Andrew Chenovick
Photo/Video guy for WEST COAST CLASSIC COUGAR, INC.
Side Gig: FLYING A PHOTOGRAPHY


RIDES:
-1968 Mercury Cougar: original family owned, Polar White, 289-2V, auto, AC / "Snowball" view project thread
-1973 Opel Manta: 1.9L, 5-speed (restored)
-1991 Mazda Miata: fun driver
-1992 Volvo 240 wagon: classy hauling machine

lonestarbullitt
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Location: Helotes, TX

Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#257

Post by lonestarbullitt » 15 Nov 2018, 10:13

It's always refreshing seeing a project come together. I'm way in the beginning stages of my restoration but seeing progress of others keeps me motivated to push on with mine. It shows me the light at the end of the tunnel, even if that tunnel continuously keeps getting longer lol. Car looks awesome!

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pellets4fuel
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Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#258

Post by pellets4fuel » 17 Nov 2018, 09:48

Andrew,
Looking good. Thought I would comment on a couple of things for you. The black out thing on the tabs for the valance is actually shown in the body assembly manual (67 at least). It also shows blacking out the mounting tabs in the center nose piece where the Merc Man bezel goes (which it don't look like you did)
When using the repro front marker lights it is possible to get the wire in that clip after you do the rewire. If you warm your heat shrink tube and hold it in the direction it needs to "sweep" until it cools it helps. I got mine anyway.
On the window thing not going all the way up in front....I had the same problem and I made a post on it which you commented on. You directed me to the door diagram you guys have.
First, I assume you put new glass runs in the front channel? I noticed when I did mine that the top wedge seemed to have a little extra rubber molded into it vrs my old ones. I did some carful widdling with an exacto knife to get it out and it helped. The other thing, are you using the premium window regulators, or your original? I had a heck of a time with my drivers door window doing just what your describing. The back always touched first over the front no matter what I did with the stops. I needed to replace my regulator because the crank mechanism was real loose, and the teeth for the crank were chewed up, but the rest of it was fine. But no matter which regulator I used (my old one, or the premium repro from WCCC) the window did the same thing. So I got looking at that arm that goes from the short equalizer track to the long window track. On my old regulator it was a little saggy by the center pin, but not horrid, for the most part straight. The new premium one was even more off than my old one. This was using a framing square as a straight edge to check how true they were through that center pivot.
So what I did that you may not want to do...was I noticed in my passengers door that the two holes that hold that short equalizer track on, were actually slotted towards the ground. And I could see when I put the passengers side back together where the flange nuts had left their mark in the steel. So I put them back in the same place, closer to the ground in the bottom of the slots. My drivers door did not have those holes slotted downward. So I slotted them so I could adjust the equalizer track downward which allows the arm to pick the front of the window up a little more, and then when it reached the top of travel then it fit right in that top front corner. Otherwise the window just wasn't going up parallel to the top door opening nor would it seat parallel until I did that no matter how I adjusted the stops.
Lastly those little clips on your headliner. I have clips like that on my 67. They help hold the headliner I guess in that area. Then the pillar pad, and the padded wind lace around the door opening cover them up so they are not seen.
Keep up the great work! Your going to feel so good once it's done. Probably a little free'er as well :) I know I did!
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior
4-speed, A/C, sports console, AM-8track.
1989 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

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Blitz
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Location: Salem, OR

Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#259

Post by Blitz » 29 Nov 2018, 11:29

pellets4fuel wrote:
17 Nov 2018, 09:48
Andrew,
Looking good. Thought I would comment on a couple of things for you...
Thanks for your detailed comments David! It's cool to know that I had the right intuition on those valance tabs. And funny that you mention the center grille piece, as I was eyeing that as well, thinking the side tabs might look better blacked out. But I don't think I've ever seen that before. Do you have an example picture by chance?

I appreciate your insight on the window conundrum! I got as far as realizing that those short equalizer tracks affect the front-to-rear angle of the glass, but never figured out which way to adjust them. I think the holes in the door shell are slotted on both of mine, so I'll try moving them down. And yes I put in the new glass run inserts, and new regulators. I'll take a closer look at those top corners and see if they need to be carved out. I also was unable to reinstall the tiny screws in those top corners, they wouldn't bite. So I left them out and put a dab of weatherstrip adhesive on the inside of those top corners.
-Andrew Chenovick
Photo/Video guy for WEST COAST CLASSIC COUGAR, INC.
Side Gig: FLYING A PHOTOGRAPHY


RIDES:
-1968 Mercury Cougar: original family owned, Polar White, 289-2V, auto, AC / "Snowball" view project thread
-1973 Opel Manta: 1.9L, 5-speed (restored)
-1991 Mazda Miata: fun driver
-1992 Volvo 240 wagon: classy hauling machine

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pellets4fuel
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Location: WI

Re: The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

#260

Post by pellets4fuel » 29 Nov 2018, 15:11

Andrew,
Here are some pics of my nose and the page from the body assembly manual. Note that the diagram is for a 67. Don't know if 68 is the same, but I can't imagine why it wouldn't be, just like the tabs on the valance and the small area on each of the front fender extensions.
As far as your screws not grabbing on the glass runs, I had the same problem on one of mine initially. I realized it wasn't seated all the way up in there. You really have to work them in there with a small blunt something. Even the length of the rail I had to really work a while to get both the rubber "tanges" into the grooves of the track. Until I got them in there just right my windows went up and down quite hard because the weather strip was pinching on the glass. Think I even ended up spraying a small amount of silicone garage door lube on the strips cuz one just gave me so much grief. As to the screw though, I have a big container of misc screws here from taking various things apart over the years. I found a sheet metal screw of some kind in my assortment the was the right size and looked close to the original one. Filed the point off the amount needed and used it. But again it's really important to make sure they are seated good, and maybe carved out a little of the extra rubber. Ace, or True value hardware stores where they have all the fasteners that you can buy for way too much money :) would probably have a screw you could make work.
Try the window adjustment thing for sure. I'm not impressed with the repro regulators that way at least. The rest of their construction is decent.
Interesting that you think yours are slotted already. My passengers door was already slotted, and my drivers door wasn't. My passengers door also has screw holes on the bottom where they put that extra piece of weather strip to help with the road noise I believe, and my drivers door doesn't. Wonder if my passengers door came off a 68 at some point?
Attachments
nose piece.jpg
nose piece.jpg (82.68 KiB) Viewed 53 times
nose piece assembly manual.jpg
nose piece assembly manual.jpg (42.91 KiB) Viewed 54 times
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior
4-speed, A/C, sports console, AM-8track.
1989 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

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