Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

From dusty barn find to daily driver, it seems our cars are never really done. This is the place to share your progress on your project car. We will celebrate your victories and commiserate over your tragedies. But most of all this is a great place to learn!
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Al Bundy
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#291

Post by Al Bundy » 07 Apr 2013, 19:30

I've taken apart quite a few of them and I've never seen one like that. Your bezel is probably broken and rather than replace it somebody got creative and figured a way to make it work.
1974 Dodge Dart - daily driver
1963 Thunderbird Z code - raven black/red
1968 XR7 F code - diamond blue/blue
1968 XR7 J code - black/red
1968 J code - madras blue/aqua
1968 XR7 X code - lime frost/dark ivy gold
1968 GT-E XR7 W code prototype no. 500033 - cardinal red/black

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cougar2
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#292

Post by cougar2 » 07 Apr 2013, 19:34

The metal bracket has just come off of the plastic welds. Use the epoxy to re-bond the metal bracket as described above. Im not sure, I will have to look at mine, but it is possible that the plastic little nibs that stick up through the metal bracket were melted flat to bond the two together. If you don't have any more plastic protruding passed the metal, just rely on the epoxy and use lots of it. Be patient and let it cure well before attaching it to the car.
As for the plastic nibs/tubs/fasteners what ever they are called, that are cracked as you say, does it look like they are all there, just cracked? If they are all there, what you can do is epoxy a threaded rod inside the plastic part that looks like a tube. Basically, you are going to find a bolt (with the head cut off) that will just fit inside the plastic tub/nib/fastener, and put lots of epoxy on the threaded part of a bolt/threaded rod and place it inside the cracked parts. This will bond and strengthen the part so it can be fastened properly.

That said, if the parts the nut screws onto is missing, but you still have a bit of a hole there, just use the bolt/threaded rod and epoxy that into the hole and then just use a nut and washer to fasten it. This is the same method used with guy's who would repair and re-chrome these parts.
Last edited by cougar2 on 07 Apr 2013, 19:38, edited 1 time in total.

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cougar2
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#293

Post by cougar2 » 07 Apr 2013, 19:35

Al Bundy wrote:I've taken apart quite a few of them and I've never seen one like that. Your bezel is probably broken and rather than replace it somebody got creative and figured a way to make it work.
Mine has the metal brackets as well. I will post a picture tomorrow.

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tmh
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#294

Post by tmh » 07 Apr 2013, 21:05

Feb 14, 1968 manufacture if that's of any bearing on whether or not it should have the bracket. It looks too well made to be a home brew, for sure. Plus there are places on the dash pad for the screws to screw into, and that thing is for sure original (and the only haggard-looking part of the interior, suggesting it's original).

Great suggestion on headless bolts! There is definitely enough of the receiving bits intact to accept them. The only parts that are broken off are the ends, of every single one.
'68 XR-7 J-Code C4, San Jose, Edelbrock 1406, PS, Front PDB, 8" rear 3.0, PS is leaky and sloppy, invisible fan shroud
'79 Bronco XLT 351m, C6, Edelbrock Performer 400 intake, Holley 6140, Howards cam, 4" suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Duratracs, dana44 front and Ford 9" rear both 4.11 LSD, Warn hub locks, invisible fan shroud
'80 Suzuki GS750E 16V DOHC, looks about 6 months old
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cougar2
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#295

Post by cougar2 » 08 Apr 2013, 21:56

As promised, here are some pictures of the dash panels that I have. After they were re-chromed, they were put back on by using a soldering iron and melting the plastic enough to mushroom it, but not too much, you don't want it to be too thin and week. On one side you can see that the plastic is a different color. You can use some plastic from other broken parts to melt in if there is not enough plastic to melt.

I hope this helps.

Im showing also the instrument cluster bezel with the metal bracket/plate and without.
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tmh
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#296

Post by tmh » 08 Apr 2013, 22:15

Wow that looks so great! I'm confused though, you say re-chroming... was the back side of the passenger dash panel chromed originally? As you can see in the pics I posted, mine is just yellowed and doesn't show any signs of chroming at all. No flaking anywhere, no flakes inside the dash either. I just assumed it would have been left yellow since its not visible at all. But man yours sure does look great!
'68 XR-7 J-Code C4, San Jose, Edelbrock 1406, PS, Front PDB, 8" rear 3.0, PS is leaky and sloppy, invisible fan shroud
'79 Bronco XLT 351m, C6, Edelbrock Performer 400 intake, Holley 6140, Howards cam, 4" suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Duratracs, dana44 front and Ford 9" rear both 4.11 LSD, Warn hub locks, invisible fan shroud
'80 Suzuki GS750E 16V DOHC, looks about 6 months old
'13 Honda CR-V AWD

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cougar2
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#297

Post by cougar2 » 09 Apr 2013, 05:25

The elderly gentleman that used to do the majority of all the chroming here, just did the whole thing, it was his practice. I think it was just easer for them to just dip them, chroming everything. He wanted me to take over his business and I already had a hands on business that took up all my time. Looking back, I probably could have hired somebody to do the work, just to keep this need going. He has since passed away, not long after doing mine. I think the job he did for me was one of the last few.

By the way, in the first picture, you can see where just the end of the soldering iron, left an indent in the plastic. I don't see any evidence of epoxy anywhere, Just melting the tabs will be all that you need. This will help to take it apart in the future if need.

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tmh
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#298

Post by tmh » 09 Jun 2014, 19:53

So I'm trying to get my PS issues squared away and am almost there.

Replaced the pump with a reman, and have replaced all the hoses which has mostly gone without issue.

The high pressure fluid sending hose that connects to the control valve, it just will not attach. There is no angle that I can get the hose at that will clear all the moving parts from lock to lock, and no angle I can get it at where the threads will catch and screw in. I've spent two hours on it and am about ready to throw something, have to walk away.

Is there some sort of secret to making this work? I've tried it with the wheels left, right, straight, just cannot get it to work.

FWIW the hoses I'm using are the premium 5/16" big block kit from WCCC. No problems with five of the six hoses, it's just this one that's killing me.

HELP!
'68 XR-7 J-Code C4, San Jose, Edelbrock 1406, PS, Front PDB, 8" rear 3.0, PS is leaky and sloppy, invisible fan shroud
'79 Bronco XLT 351m, C6, Edelbrock Performer 400 intake, Holley 6140, Howards cam, 4" suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Duratracs, dana44 front and Ford 9" rear both 4.11 LSD, Warn hub locks, invisible fan shroud
'80 Suzuki GS750E 16V DOHC, looks about 6 months old
'13 Honda CR-V AWD

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badcatt
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#299

Post by badcatt » 09 Jun 2014, 22:09

Have you compared it to the old hose? Something may have been changed over the years and the factory correct part may not fit now.
Neal Jacobson.
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tmh
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Re: Hello all; the TMH Chicago Cat project

#300

Post by tmh » 15 Jul 2014, 18:58

Finally had a chance to get back out in the garage this past weekend. Managed to get the new hose in place, the trick was to orient it in a way that had the threads as straight in to the control valve's seat as possible even though that's not where the hose was ultimately routed, and then reorient it once it was screwed in. Worked like a champ.

Filled it up, ran it lock to lock a couple times, topped it off, checked for leaks and found some slight leaking. Cranked the fittings down a little tighter and the leaking stopped. Success!

Drove around about 10 miles, stopping periodically to make sure no leaking had started up, or anything more catastrophic. No problems, EXCEPT that somewhere around 8 miles in, it started to feel more like it used to, closer to manual steering. It was only really apparent when turning the wheels at very low speed.

Checked and there were still no leaks, and the fluid level on the dipstick was right where I had left it.

Then yesterday I drove it to work and back, same sort of thing, no leaking but the steering required more muscle than it should.

When I got home I checked the belt, and I have a feeling that's my problem. It isn't quite as tight as I had left it, certainly not loose but doing the turn it over trick, I was able to rotate the belt almost 180 degrees, maybe 160 or something. So I think I may not have tightened down the retaining bolt enough and it slipped ever so slightly and the belt isn't making quite as good of contact with the pulley as it should. That's all I can think of really.

One thing I noticed after the long drive home from work was that when I went to check the fluid level, the dipstick was really hot. Not burning off skin kinda hot, but definitely more than just warm. Is that normal? I honestly can't remember what it was like before, with the original PS system in place.

I really want to drive the cougar to work again tomorrow but won't have time tonight to do any running it through its paces, and the roads are wet from rain earlier today anyway. But I would have enough time to retension that belt before leaving for work in the morning. Seem reasonable? Or does this sound like some sort of other problem? Only other thing I can think of is if there was some sort of obstruction of the fluid flow. But with brand new hoses and new reman pump, I don't know why that would be the case.

Thoughts?
'68 XR-7 J-Code C4, San Jose, Edelbrock 1406, PS, Front PDB, 8" rear 3.0, PS is leaky and sloppy, invisible fan shroud
'79 Bronco XLT 351m, C6, Edelbrock Performer 400 intake, Holley 6140, Howards cam, 4" suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Duratracs, dana44 front and Ford 9" rear both 4.11 LSD, Warn hub locks, invisible fan shroud
'80 Suzuki GS750E 16V DOHC, looks about 6 months old
'13 Honda CR-V AWD

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